We have always marveled at the Jekyll and Hyde aspect of Assateague Island. The MD end of the island is narrow, mostly sandy beach and low scrub brush. This long narrow spit of land has miles of marshy grasslands and numerous hummocks, also called islands, just off shore in the bay. By contrast, the VA end of the island is much wider with a short and narrow sandy beach. The marshlands are also expansive but the middle of the island supports heavily forested areas and the bay between Assateague and the mainland is island free. As we progressed mile after mile down the beach on the OSV road, we could see the changes.
Almost immediately, the dunes became taller, healthier and more alive with erosion impeding growth. Eventually the scrubby bush and stump pines gave way to the much taller Loblolly Pines and even some hardwoods. Close to Stateline is a healthy freshwater marsh, an intact ecosystem complete with cattails. This freshwater source is a great resource for the small bands of horses that inhabit this end of the island where other bands make due with brackish water and puddles after a rainstorm.
Our trip over sand not only gave us a look at the different layers of agency dealings, Enforcement Officers, Park Rangers and Natural Resources People all working hand in hand to keep the park pristine. It also reminded us of things they are unable to prevent such as the natural process of a barrier island adjusting to weather and it’s movement by the tides and storms. During Hurricane Sandy, the entire island was subjected to a massive tidal surge. As a result, many of the aged trees in the middle of the island are showing signs of salt toxicity and are dying off. We think of Barrier Islands protecting the mainland but they must also handle a great deal of abuse from weather during it’s life. Assateague Island is not where it was 50 years ago and will continue to move over the next 50. The animals that call this place home, the White Tailed and Sika deer, rabbits and the horses, have a pretty tough life. I’ve spent some time here now and will always wonder how the island is dealing with that next Atlantic storm, summer or winter.
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